We recently debated whether to include Fattoria Moretto’s Lambrusco in our sparkling wine section, or if it was better suited to a “chilled reds” offering. After all, it’s undeniably effervescent—not boisterously so, just pleasantly frizzante. And yet, Lambrusco doesn’t play the same role as a racy blanc de blancs or easy-drinking crémant; it is a dry red, and in the case of Moretto’s Monovitigno, a very deep, robust one at that: it’s velvety, full-bodied, and bursting with brambly berries and generous notes of amaretto and cherry pit. How then to classify this vinous red sparkler, to pinpoint its cohort when it really lives in a category all its own, or rather, in several conflicting ones?? Even as wine professionals, we were stumped.      If you haven’t tried a Lambrusco of late, or feel apprehensive about its enigmatic qualities, consider the experience of tasting it. Moretto’s satisfies many things at once: It’s as festive as a Champagne, as lighthearted as a Beaujolais, and as seriously food-friendly as any other rosso from northern Italy. That it comes from the country’s culinary epicenter, Emilia-Romagna, and is made from the hearty, red-stalked subtype of the Lambrusco grape called Grasparossa, speaks volumes of its gastronomical pedigree. Served cool, it shines alongside anything that calls for a palate reset, buffing it clean with a fine and chalky tannin. A platter of well-marbled charcuterie, ripe and creamy cheeses, slow-cooked bolognese all come to mind, as does a long, lingering meal with a variety of sides piled high.      As you can see, we did decide to include it in our sparkling wine section, making it a great time to discover—or revisit—this one-of-a-kind red, er, sparkler.