Where the entry level bottling from Moldes, Afelio, is a classic expression of Albariño from Rías Baixas, A Capela de Aios (named for the small church in the town where these vineyards are located), flips the notion of what the grape can do in Val do Salnés on its head. These vines, some up to 80+ years old, are planted on schist, something incredibly rare in this granite dominated region. Just like Afelio, the grapes are hand harvested and basket pressed right. The juice is then slowly fermented in neutral French oak, without temperature control, and is aged for an additional 11 months in the same barrels. The impact the schist soils brings to the wines is profound when tasted next to any other example of Spanish Albariño. Full-bodied, soulful and intensely mineral, almost steely up front, with a punch of zesty citrus. Given to me blind, I would call Chenin Blanc well before Albariño, with a core of wet stone, flint and fleshy nectarine.