Some call Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi “the white Barolo”. That conjures associations of complexity, delicacy, longevity and high quality. Perhaps has the greatest aging potential of any Italian white wine, taking on characteristics of white Burgundy, this flinty green beauty comes from one of the newest DOCGs (for Riserva) in Italy. Bucci specializes in Verdicchio in the region of Marche. There are two Verdicchio DOCs in Marche worthy of your attention. Castelli di Jesi, which Bucci produces, is one of them (the other is Metalica). Never terribly expensive, it is nonetheless one of Italy’s greatest white wines, and we’ve had 20+ year-old examples that rival a great mature white Burgundy. Bucci has always made their wines in a very traditional style, without changing their techniques in the cellar over the years. They report, however, that the wines have gotten much better, they think because they have reduced their yields and converted to full organics.