The story of JM Sélèque is virtually identical to so many other estates’: a prodigal son returns to his family domaine and starts farming organically—in his case, with some biodynamic practices—and working to dramatically increase the quality and unique identity of his family’s wine. Jean-Marc works tirelessly in the vineyards and in the cellars, and in fact is the estate’s sole employee. The only reason all of his farming isn't biodynamic is because his parcels are so far away from each other, sprinkled across the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay, a region best known for its lithe and mineral-driven Champagnes made from a blend of the three main grapes. His family has held the domaine for several generations so the vines are old—averaging 40 years of age for his youngest—and yields are low, giving his Champagne incredible concentration and great purity. Blend based on Chardonnay, with Meunier, and Pinot Noir. Solessence is a reflection of the diversity of the Coteaux Sud d´Epernay. The grapes for this wine average 45 years of age. Half the blend comes from a perpetual reserve. The new wine is raised primarily in steel with some in wood, and then time on the lees for 2 years for the the 750mls then aged for 2 years on the lees before disgorging.The wine is bottled without fining or filtration. The lot number on the back label is the base vintage. The wine has an unusually fine mousse and terrific plump fruit and elegance, underpinned by a stony salinity.