This vineyard dates back to the Romans, owned and operated by the Laboucarie family since the 17th century, and produces this benchmark Southern French rose. People often wonder, myself included, how Fontsainte’s Gris de Gris can be so good. What sort of sorcery must be involved to consistently offer a wine that is so flawless, so satisfying, and so deliriously value-driven year in and year out? The eponymous variety that makes up most of the blend, Grenache Gris is a pink-skinned, more characterful version of Grenache Blanc that ripens into a bouquet of fresh nectarine, white cherries, and bergamot. The pale juice released from gently pressing the grapes immediately after harvest preserves the fruit’s delicate aromas and transforms into a delicious rosé, purely and simply. Though part of the appeal of Fontsainte’s Gris de Gris is that it’s so drinkable on its own—with just a beach read, or some lawn games to pass the time—its adaptability to food only bolsters its charm. Richer fare is lifted by its juicy acidity, salty foods are washed clean. The 2025 edition is as irresistible as ever, bursting with cool citrus and wild strawberry over a delicate tingle of acidity and mouthwatering salty note. Does rosé get any better than this? I lean toward no, but will require several more bottles to reach a proper conclusion.